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Seed Starting
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I. Introduction - Seed starting can be both
economical and enjoyable
A. Most seeds should be started 6-8 weeks
before the last frost ate which is approximately mid May.
B. The Warmer the growing conditions, the
shorter the time to grow transplants.
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A cool soil seed does best in temperatures
ranging from 50°F to 65°F. (e.g.: peas, radishes,
spinach, turnips)
- Seeds that tolerate cool soil do best in a soil temperature
from 50°F to 85°F. (e.g.: parsley, endive, cabbage,
carrot)
- Warm soil seeds need soil temperature from 65°F to 85°F.
(e.g.: beans, corn, squash, melons, peppers, and tomatoes)
II. Basic Requirements
A. Disease free growing medium
- Hoffman seed starter
- Jiffy Mix
- Vermiculite
- No Damp-Off Sphagnum
- Pro-Mix
B. Warmth and moisture for seed germination
- Heating cable
- Mini Greenhouse
C. Adequate Light
- 10 watts / sq. feet of growing area
- 6" - 8" above soil surface (e.g.: flourescent bulb
for optimum plant growth little heat given off, will not damage
plant)
D. Hardening off period from indoor to outdoor
III. Methods
A. Two step method
- Start seeds in a flat with seed starter.
- Seeds should be planted to recommended depth, usually 1/4".
Save seed packets for future directions.
- Soil cables are recommended to keep soil at proper temperature
for optimum germination.
- Mini greenhouse lid can be placed over tray.
- Do not water until after germination of seed and then keep
slightly moist.
- When first true leaves are formed (not cotyledons -- first
two leaves which store nutrients) transplant to peat pots. Plant
at same soil level, firming soil around foots and stem.
- Discard all unhealthy or weak plants.
B. One step method
- Sow 2 seeds directly into plastic pots, peeat pots, or Jiffy-&
Peat Pellets.
- Place in tray and water.
- Place greenhouse lid on tray.
IV. Transplanting
A. Harden off plants for one to two weeks
- Place in protected area with filtered shade in the morning
and bring them in at night.
B. Water plants to keep soil together, use healthiest
and fullest plants.
C. Remove plants gently by tapping pots or pulling
apart. Do not cut-cutting, remove roots.
D. Coiled roots can be cut.
E. Rake sides with a table fork to spread out
roots.
F. Do not squeeze oil, it will compact.
G. Peat pots can be planted with plant aas long
as top lip is broken off, bottom is removed, and edges are buried.
H. Set plants in hole and gently firm soil to
remove air pockets.
I. Tomato and cabbage families should be planted
just below bottom leaves.
J. A side dressing of fertilizer is helpful,
but caution is advised.
- Granular - Burpee Vegetable, Gardentone, Hoffman Garden Fertilizer
- Liquid - Peter's Garden Special - also many others to choose
from.
K. A mulch is beneficial to retain soil and
eliminate weed competition.
- Shredded Bark
- Black Plastic
V. Harvesting
A. When tops have withered and died down, potatoes
may be dug.
B. Dry potato after digging, about 2-3 hours.
IV. Storage
A. First week - temperature of 50-65 degrees.
B. Drop temperature to 40-45 degrees to prevent
sprouting.
C. Potatoes should be kept dark. When exposed
to light, they develop a green color and a semi-bitter taste.
Potatoes grow in most soils, however, there are certain conditions
for optimum growth. It is essential that ertified disease-free tubers
be used to prevent many diseases which are carried over on tubers.
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